Food and Love
by Laurie Woolever
Norma Listman and Saqib Keval, married chef-restaurateurs, put their egalitarian values and politics to work at their acclaimed Mexico City restaurant Masala y Maíz. For years they have hosted “eat what you like, pay what you can” days, in the interest of expanding community access. Last year they were awarded a star by the venerable Michelin Guide; they also recruited 20 neighboring restaurants to their campaign. For 2026, they’re actively recruiting restaurants across Mexico, in the U.S., the U.K. and elsewhere.
Listman, who grew up in Texcoco, outside of Mexico City, and Keval, born in the U.S. to parents from India by way of Ethiopia and Kenya, met while working as cooks in Oakland, California. They have lived in Mexico City and operated Masala y Maíz since 2017, preparing a personal, sophisticated cuisine that they describe as mestizaje, a blend of Mexican, Indian and East African flavors, ingredients and techniques, like esquites in which the corn is cooked in coconut milk—a classic Swahili preparation—and seasoned with an Indian masala, or spice blend.
Mexico City has become increasingly unaffordable for Mexicans because of an influx of long-term visitors, retirees and other immigrants from wealthier parts of the world. Even as costs ballooned, the trend was only encouraged in 2022 by then-mayor, now-president Claudia Sheinbaum, who signed an agreement with Airbnb and UNESCO to actively court the business of “digital nomads.”
I spoke with Listman and Keval over the phone recently, about worker-centered labor practices, what happens in the absence of a critical press, and the challenges of balancing their values with a sustainable business model. Our conversation has been condensed for length and clarity.
Keep us breathing fire!
For $3/month you can read this whole post and get our weekdaily newsletter too!